Encounters with Mountain Gorillas with Penny Robartes

A Transformative Journey in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park

There are moments during every Mountain Gorilla trek when time seems to stand still. When the humid forest air, the damp soil underfoot, and the length of the climb all fade away as you find yourself mere meters from one of our closest living relatives. This is what my repeat private guests and I experienced during our recent four-night stay at Wilderness Safari’s eco-luxury Bisate Lodge in Rwanda.

Nestled in the shadow of Rwanda’s magnificent volcanoes, our time in this pristine corner of Africa offered much more than spectacular views and luxurious accommodations. It provided an intimate window into one of conservation’s greatest success stories, and a profound connection with creatures who share 98% of our DNA.

The Sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park

Volcanoes National Park stands as a testament to Rwanda’s commitment to wildlife conservation. This protected area spans over 160 square kilometers of rainforest and bamboo, climbing up the slopes of the Virunga Mountains. Home to approximately half of the world’s remaining Mountain Gorillas, the park represents the frontline of efforts to save these magnificent creatures from extinction.

In the 1980s, Mountain Gorillas teetered on the brink of disappearance with fewer than 250 individuals remaining. Today, thanks to rigorous protection measures, community involvement, and responsible tourism, their population has grown to over 1,000 – a conservation miracle that funds further protection through carefully managed gorilla treks.

Face to Face with Our Evolutionary Cousins

During our stay, we embarked on two unforgettable Mountain Gorilla treks, encountering both the Agashya and Kigoma families. Each experience revealed different facets of gorilla society and behavior, yet both left us profoundly moved.

The Agashya family welcomed us with remarkable serenity. The dominant silverback displayed the quiet confidence of assured leadership, calmly observing our presence before returning to feed and rest with his family members. Perhaps the most touching moment came when a mother proudly presented her one-month-old infant, allowing us to witness as the baby suckled while she continued feeding. This display of trust and maternal pride created an unspoken bond that transcended species.

In stark contrast, our trek to the Kigoma family – comprised of two silverbacks and several females with juveniles – found them busily foraging throughout our visit. The challenging lighting conditions during this trek provided valuable lessons in wildlife photography, as bright, harsh sunlight required creative approaches to capture compelling portraits.

Mirrors of Humanity

What strikes visitors most powerfully during these encounters is the unmistakable recognition of ourselves in these great apes. A young gorilla climbing a fallen tree slipped off and immediately hid its face in embarrassment – a gesture so human it took our breath away. The intelligence behind their eyes, their expressive faces, and their familiar hand gestures create an immediate emotional connection.

My guests – who have traveled with me annually for five years and experienced countless wildlife encounters – described gorilla trekking as utterly unlike anything they had previously experienced or imagined. There is something profoundly moving about recognizing our shared emotions and expressions in these magnificent creatures, despite our different evolutionary paths.

Conservation Through Connection

The privilege of spending time with Mountain Gorillas comes with responsibility. Rwanda’s carefully managed tourism model ensures that gorilla families receive strictly limited visitors for just one hour daily, minimizing stress while generating substantial revenue for conservation efforts.

This approach has created a virtuous cycle where gorillas are worth far more alive than dead, empowering local communities to become guardians rather than threats to these endangered primates. The remarkable turnaround in gorilla numbers stands as proof that conservation can succeed when communities benefit directly from protecting wildlife.

Bisate Lodge itself embodies this philosophy, creating a luxurious but ecologically conscious base for exploration while contributing significantly to local reforestation and community development projects.

Beyond Words

As we departed Volcanoes National Park the day after our final trek, the weight of the experience settled upon us. How does one adequately describe looking into the eyes of a creature so like ourselves, yet existing in a world so different? How can words capture the privilege of sitting quietly as a gorilla family goes about their day, accepting our presence with a tolerance humans rarely extend to other species?

Perhaps this is why gorilla trekking transforms those who experience it. It challenges our perspective on our place in the natural world and reminds us of connections far deeper than our modern lives typically acknowledge.

For those considering this journey, know that it demands physical effort – the treks can be challenging across steep, muddy terrain. But also know that few wildlife experiences on Earth offer such profound rewards or leave such lasting impressions on the human heart.