Uganda’s Great Apes & Wildlife with Penny Robartes

A photographic journey of the magnetic allure of this extraordinary destination.

Every photo tour and safari tells a story, but my purpose of these journeys are to transcend mere documentation – they become transformative experiences that etch themselves into your soul. My photo tour through Uganda was precisely that.

This adventure brought together six incredible people under my photographic guidance and leadership – four of whom were returning travellers who’ve travelled with me on a variety of photo tours over the years. Our 10-day tour wound through three breathtaking destinations, each offering its own unique canvas of wildlife and wilderness.

Kibale Forest: Kingdom of the Chimpanzee

Our four expeditions took place in the lush, emerald embrace of Kibale Forest, home to our closest living relatives. Chimpanzees are classified as Endangered by the IUCN Red List, with their population having plummeted by approximately 66% over the past 25 years. There are approximately 1,500 chimpanzees living in Kibale National Park in Uganda, making it one of the best places in the world to track chimpanzees. Out of the four communities found in Kibale, only one is available for tourism. This community is habituated to humans and as they split into smaller groups at any given time, it allows travellers to view smaller groups without large numbers of people focusing on specific individuals at one time.

These extraordinary primates share an astonishing 98.8% of their DNA with humans, a genetic proximity that becomes viscerally apparent during close encounters. Their complex social structures and emotional intelligence are all the more clear when you gaze upon them. My guests and I spent 3 nights in beautiful accommodations within the National Park. We woke up and went to sleep to the sounds and calls of its forest wildlife and birdlife. All our rooms looked out into the forest, where ancient trees hold secrets and stories we will never see nor hear.

The forest is utterly enchanting. You feel the ancient energy coursing through the earth and trees. The trees through…moss covered, twisting roots, reaching far and wide just as their branches seek to kiss the sky. You cannot help but keep your eyes wide open just to absorb and drink in all the exquisite scenery around you. When we came upon the Chimpanzees, my heart felt like it stopped, paused, and then started beating a deeper, more primal beat. We walked alongside a small group as they went foraging in the morning. We watched and photographed fleeting moments when they paused to eat fruit that had fallen on the ground, sat still while gazing at one another or up in the trees before a message unheard by us passed between them and they continued moving. Each trek revealed new layers of complexity – from playful juveniles tumbling through verdant canopies to mature adults watching passively or asserting their hierarchical positions with nuanced communication.

Threats to chimpanzee survival are multifaceted: habitat loss, hunting, disease transmission from humans, and the illegal wildlife trade continue to push these incredible beings towards potential extinction. Each of our four treks became not just a photographic opportunity, but a powerful experience of connection to another living creature and the urgent need for conservation.

The forest itself was alive – a breathing, pulsing ecosystem where every rustling leaf and distant call told a story. My guests and I worked hard in capturing moments of raw, unscripted primate life that few are fortunate enough to experience.

Queen Elizabeth National Park – Ishasha: Where Lions Defy Gravity

From the dense forest, we transitioned to the expansive landscapes of Ishasha in Queen Elizabeth National Park – home to the legendary tree-climbing lions. These magnificent cats, defying conventional predator behaviour, lounge languidly on fig tree branches, surveying their domain with regal indifference as well as catching respite from the heat of the day and its accompanying flies.

While the lions were a highlight of our time spent in Ishasha, we had multiple mammal & bird sightings that were more spectacular to some of my guests than the lions. One late afternoon into early evening, we spent over an hour with a large bachelor herd of Elephant. There was some very large, mature bulls to more lively younger males. Being in the presence of Elephant is always a special occasion. We looked at capturing and creating diverse imagery and videos of the encounters and behaviours playing out before our eyes.

Another species that was new to everyone was the Ugandan Kob. This pretty antelope was seen in high numbers, with young lambs suckling from their mothers, to males fighting one another, and a very common sighting was seeing and hearing the herds alarm call and follow hyena whom would lope through the herds looking for their meals in the form of Kob; young, old, weak or unsuspecting. Large numbers of Topi were seen amongst the Kob which too would chase Hyena away if they came too close.

Bwindi: The Gorilla Encounter

Our journey culminated in what can only be described as pure magic – two gorilla treks in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Here, amid mist-shrouded mountains and dense vegetation, we encountered mountain gorillas in their most intimate moments.

These encounters are more than wildlife photography; they are profound, almost spiritual connections. Watching youngsters follow a silverback to tenderly and attentively groom him, observing family dynamics that mirror our own human experiences – these are the moments that transform a simple photo tour into a life-altering expedition.

The mountain gorillas, with their soulful eyes and emotional portrayals and behaviours, mirror us so accurately. They are not just subjects to be photographed, but ambassadors of a world we are privileged to glimpse.

The mountain gorilla is a conservation success story, yet remains Endangered. In the 1980s, fewer than 250 individuals survived. Today, through intensive conservation efforts, their population has grown to approximately 1,063 individuals, all living in the protected forests of Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to approximately 459 individuals.

Genetically, gorillas share approximately 98% of their DNA with humans, an almost unbelievable proximity that becomes palpable during direct observation. Their social structures are remarkably complex – led by a dominant silverback (or more than one) who makes critical decisions about group movement, conflict resolution, and protection. During our gorilla treks, we would often hear the silverback(s) grunting to their family members. Our head rangers told us that this is their way of asking his family if they are fine. To hear his family members grunt in affirmation was deeply powerful. They were fine, allowing us to stay in their space and share it with us. What a privilege of the highest degree.

The Deeper Connection

While our memory cards are filled with stunning images, the true treasure lies in understanding our profound connection to these remarkable beings. Chimpanzees and gorillas are not just wildlife – they are our evolutionary cousins, complex societies with emotions, intelligence, and social structures that challenge our anthropocentric worldview.

Conservation is no longer just about protecting species, but about preserving entire ecosystems and understanding our interconnectedness. Each photograph becomes a powerful narrative of survival, resilience, and the delicate balance of life on our shared planet.

To my guests, to Uganda’s incredible wildlife, it’s rangers and protectors, and to the moments of wonder we shared – thank you for a journey that will resonate in my heart long after the photographs and videos have been edited.

To you, reader, adventure awaits! Come join me in Uganda on my Great Apes & Wildlife Photo Tour in November 2025.

Always keep exploring.

Penny Robartes , your ORYX Senior Photo Tour Leader