Into the Shadows: Photographing Giza Mrembu with Penny Robartes
In the rugged wilderness of Laikipia, Kenya, my recent photographic safari took place where my guests and I were seeking a masterpiece painted in starlight and shadow. As a professional photo tour leader who has guided wildlife photography tours for over a decade, I can say with certainty that few experiences rival the raw magnetism of tracking, viewing and photographing the region’s most enigmatic resident – Giza, the melanistic leopard whose ebony coat seems to absorb the very essence of night, and whose eyes shine with the moon’s own light.
Our journey was marked by breathtaking encounters with the 5 habituated leopards found on this private concession. Under the cover of darkness, we witnessed nature’s most primal scenes as leopards – not just Giza, but also the commanding presence of Kofu, the opportunistic Kisiwa, and the nurturing Nyosha with her growing cub – engaged in thrilling hunting pursuits. Teaching my guests the delicate art of spotlight photography added an entirely new dimension to their wildlife photography arsenal, as we captured these ethereal predators in their nocturnal realm.
But it was one particular evening that etched itself into our collective memory – a moment that reminded us why we continue to immerse ourselves in these fleeting wildlife encounters. After the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in a pastel blue in soft light, we were granted a privilege few have witnessed: Giza leading her two spotted cubs to a new den site. Watching this melanistic mother guide her cubs along the wilderness paths, less than 100 meters from our camp road, was more than just a photographic opportunity – it was a reminder of nature’s endless capacity to humble and ground us.
While Laikipia’s landscape is graced by other remarkable species – the endangered Reticulated Giraffe, dazzling Grevy’s Zebra, and highly social African Wild Dog – it’s the leopards that hold court here. As tourism has steeply increased at the private concession once news of Giza started circulating, lions, typically nomadic in this region, are beginning to establish more structured prides and are becoming more habituated to vehicles. Although we saw fresh tracks of these beasts and heard them calling nearly every day, we only had a glimpse of a lioness one evening under the cover of night, lying fleetingly in the road before getting up and turning into a whisper in the night
This safari was more than just a photography tour; it was filled with learnings in patience, technique, and the rewards of perseverance. Between the focused learning sessions, the adrenaline of nighttime photography, and the camaraderie shared over sunset discussions, we created memories that will last far beyond the final shutter click.
For those who dream of photographing what can undeniably be named Africa’s most ethereal big cat, who yearn to capture moments that few will ever witness, my next Black Leopard Photo Tour awaits. Join me in Laikipia, where every evening brings the promise of encountering Giza and her kin, and where every dawn holds the potential for photographic magic.
In this raw, wild corner of Kenya, we don’t just take pictures – we become part of a story that’s been unfolding since time immemorial, one frame at a time.
Penny Robartes is one of ORYX’s Senior Photo Tour Leaders, and has been expertly leading photographers of all levels to Kenya for over a decade. Her knowledge of wildlife and the areas travelled to, combined with the highly-regarded working relationship and camaraderie with local guides used ensures that her guests get the most rewarding and holistic wildlife photographic safari experience.
