Leopard Odyssey – MalaMala Photo Tour
MalaMala Game Reserve is a sought-after destination for all wildlife and nature photography enthusiasts. The variety and density of wildlife, combined with the habituated manner of many of the local animals, allow ample time to be spent with our photographic subjects.
With the passing of winter and the end of spring, conditions are dry and hot, with water sources scarce. This, in turn, makes wildlife movements more predictable. Large numbers of animals, both predator and prey, congregate along the banks of the Sand River. The middle of November signals the first summer rains, bringing new life. The reserve’s landscape starts to turn green, seasonal waterholes and pans fill, and the arrival of the Woodland Kingfishers, heralded by their iconic calls, marks the start of summer.
The first impala lambs are born, providing a bounty of new prey for the resident predators, especially the leopards, who take full advantage of this natural abundance. The vegetation is green but not too dense, offering excellent visibility for tracking and observing predators, particularly leopards. This brief two-week period during the early summer rains often delivers some of the most exciting wildlife encounters, all in close proximity to the camps and the Sand River.
MalaMala Game Reserve is world-renowned for its incredible Big Five sightings, most notably the rosetted cat, the alluring leopard! It is considered the best place in the world to view and photograph these soul-stirring big cats. Relaxed and habituated, encounters with these leopards are widely celebrated and sought after. Lions, African wild dogs, cheetahs, and other predators are also found here.
The focus of this safari was leopards, as MalaMala is one of the premier destinations to photograph these magnificent cats. The long-standing history of ethical viewing and habituation ensures that these leopards are comfortable with the presence of vehicles, allowing them to carry on their daily behaviour. This provides a unique opportunity to spend quality time with these animals, often with no more than one or two vehicles at a time. There are no strict rules on the duration of sightings as long as consideration is given to the welfare of the animals, as well as the guiding team and other guests in the camp. Game drive hours are highly flexible, maximizing time with the leopards and other wildlife to ensure the best photographic opportunities. The aim of this safari was to create a portfolio of images that conveyed a story, captured the beauty of leopards amidst the summer greenery, and produced fine art-quality photographs straight from the camera.
This particular safari was a tailor-made, private tour for a long-time ORYX client and friend, alongside ORYX Photo Tour Leader Daniel Bailey. It was planned to visit MalaMala, where Daniel worked full-time as a specialist photographic ranger for more than seven years. His in-depth local knowledge of the region and its wildlife was key to crafting the ultimate photographic experience. We enjoyed a week-long stay from the 21st to the 28th of November at MalaMala’s premier accommodation, Rattray’s Camp.
Rattray’s Camp
Our base for this leopard-focused safari was the luxurious Rattray’s Camp, tucked away in a lush forest on the banks of the world-renowned Sand River. MalaMala Rattray’s Camp offers an intimate glimpse into an era when the magic of the African bush was married with elegance and refinement. Combining understated opulence and romantic exclusivity with unrivaled game viewing, Rattray’s Camp is the premier safari destination for those seeking to experience the most exciting wildlife spectacle in South Africa.
Each freestanding, spacious suite offers lush seclusion and spectacular views of the Sand River. Wildlife of all shapes and sizes can be observed while enjoying the suite’s private plunge pool, cooling off in the outdoor shower, or relaxing with a massage on the deck. Sumptuous meals are served in various locations, including the “boma,” the deck, the dining room, or the privacy of your suite. The camp is perfect for unwinding after a full day on safari, with air-conditioned spaces, a library, and comfortable areas for reviewing, critiquing, and editing the day’s images.
Day 1: The Leopard Odyssey Begins
After settling into the lodge and enjoying a hearty lunch, we set off on our first afternoon drive. Reports from the guiding team, including our enthusiastic guide David, indicated that a female leopard and her cub had an impala kill hoisted in a tree not far from camp. We planned to enter the sighting later in the afternoon to capture the best golden light and observe the leopards’ activity.
As we drove along the river, we found tracks of a large male leopard and searched for a while, hoping he might appear. Along the way, we encountered a black mamba being harassed by a slender mongoose. After the snake quickly retreated, we continued on.
Upon reaching the sighting, we saw the cub feeding while the mother rested nearby. To our surprise, a third leopard—a large male known as Splitrock—arrived on the scene. It was incredible to witness a family of leopards together. The male approached cautiously, using soft contact calls to announce his presence. The cub moved aside as the mother watched closely.
The male claimed the carcass and fed while the mother kept a watchful eye on her cub. His relaxed demeanor was remarkable, especially given the cub’s proximity. As the sun set, he hoisted the kill into the tree, signaled he was done, and climbed down, allowing the mother and cub to feed.
This incredible start to our week confirmed why MalaMala is the ultimate destination for leopard sightings. My guest and I couldn’t wait to see what the rest of the safari had in store!
Day 2: The Lookout and Her Cub, and More
We started early, venturing out before sunrise with coffee in hand. Our destination was the site of the Lookout female leopard and her cub, along with their impala kill from the previous evening. The sun was just rising, casting a golden glow over the landscape. We found the mother and cub perched in a tree—the Lookout female was feeding on the carcass while her cub watched from a lower branch.
Leopards often feed separately to avoid aggression, taking turns at the carcass. At one point, the Lookout female accidentally dropped the remnants of the kill to the ground. The cub looked on in apparent disbelief, but fortunately, no hyenas were around. The Lookout female quickly descended, retrieved the carcass, and secured it on the ground.
The cub climbed down to a more photogenic spot in the tree, pausing perfectly in the fork of a branch. With ideal lighting, it gazed curiously at our vehicle, providing some unforgettable photographic opportunities. After some time, both leopards descended. Realizing the meal was finished, they began to play and groom each other right next to our Land Cruiser, utilizing the shade it provided. This intimate interaction reinforced the strong bond between mother and cub.
Eventually, they moved off together in search of water, heading towards the Kapen River. At a seasonal pan, they quenched their thirst. A spotted hyena approached but, finding no meal, wandered off.
Following this memorable sighting, we stopped along the Sand River for breakfast beneath Jackalberry trees. The setting was serene, accompanied by the calls of migratory Woodland Kingfishers—truly the sound of summer. We enjoyed a spread of seasonal fruits, yogurt, muesli, breakfast wraps, and freshly brewed coffee, soaking in the ambiance of the bush.
Later, we tracked the Matumi male, a young leopard near the MalaMala Main Camp. The son of the Piccadilly female, this newly independent male is striking, with heterochromatic eyes—one a bluish-green, the other a yellowish-orange. We found him near a seasonal pan, attempting to stalk impala before settling in the shade. Close by, a coalition of male lions roared, but we stayed focused on the leopard.
This sighting allowed for excellent photographic moments, including portraits highlighting his unique eyes. The encounter concluded as he drank from a seasonal pan, his reflection perfectly mirrored in the water.
Afternoon Adventures
In the afternoon, we explored the Kapen River, known for its boulders and the Kapen female leopard, believed to have cubs. En route, we found her in an open grassland. She moved towards the river, offering fantastic photographic opportunities. At one point, she climbed a termite mound to scan her surroundings
Suddenly, the alarm calls of vervet monkeys revealed another leopard—a large male known as the Split Rock male. He salivated heavily as he approached her. The Kapen female initially kept her distance, behaving submissively by calling and rolling on the road. She eventually moved to the riverbed for a drink.
The Split Rock male followed, analyzing her scent through a flehmen grimace. We positioned our vehicle in the riverbed, capturing dramatic low-angle images. The two leopards began a fascinating interaction: a mix of courtship and tension. She alternated between affectionate gestures and aggressive swipes, a dynamic that continued as the evening unfolded.
As the light faded, we experimented with slow shutter speeds, creating panning shots that conveyed the energy and movement of their interaction. It was unclear whether the Kapen female still had cubs or was attempting to keep the male away from her den.
Day 3: The Flat Rock Male, Lightning & Leopards
Our morning began with an exciting discovery: tracks of a large male leopard. We followed his movements, deciphering his journey through the sand. His tracks eventually revealed drag marks—clear signs that he had made a kill. Tracking these drag marks is always thrilling, as they often lead to an incredible sighting.
Finally, we located the Flat Rock Male, a magnificent leopard, with a newborn impala lamb kill. He had chosen a dense thicket to feed and rest, which limited photographic opportunities. Given the rising heat—36°C by 8:00 AM—we decided to let him be and moved to the Sand River for a break.
At a scenic spot below the West Street Bridge, we enjoyed a flexible bush breakfast and even cooled off with a swim in the crystal-clear shallow waters. It was the perfect way to recharge before returning to camp to escape the intense midday heat.
Afternoon Adventures
The afternoon brought us back to the Flat Rock Male, who had shifted to a shaded spot near the Sand River’s elevated bank. We positioned our vehicle to achieve a beautiful green backdrop, accentuated by the lush vegetation on the opposite bank. Waiting paid off as he eventually stirred, scanning his surroundings and offering breathtaking photographic opportunities.
Later, he descended to the river for a drink. Though we narrowly missed capturing him mid-drink, we managed stunning images of him patrolling the riverbanks before he returned to his kill.
As he fed, nature delivered a spectacular show. Towering cumulonimbus clouds gathered, thunder rolled, and lightning lit up the darkening sky. The sight of this powerful male leopard, framed by the dramatic storm, was electric—literally and metaphorically.
Why Late November?
This day perfectly encapsulated why late November safaris at MalaMala are magical. The combination of thriving wildlife, lush greenery, and dramatic summer lightning storms creates an unparalleled photographic and sensory experience. Lightning and leopards—truly a photographer’s dream come true.
Day 4: Mating Leopards
Our morning began with a mission to follow up on the potential den site of the Kapen female. En route, we came across two Ndzhenga male lions resting in the grasslands. Though inactive, we watched them briefly, hoping they might stir. As we approached the rocks believed to be the Kapen female’s den site, another vehicle radioed in—they had spotted a leopard on the rocks with an impala lamb carcass in a tree above. To everyone’s surprise, it was the New Rocks female, the Kapen female’s previous daughter. Tragically, it was suspected she had killed her mother’s cubs to reduce competition—a harsh but natural aspect of leopard dynamics.
Continuing the search for the Kapen female and the Split Rock male, we first encountered the Lookout female, posing beautifully atop a large termite mound. While photographing her, we heard unmistakable sounds of leopards mating in the riverbed ahead. Following the sounds, we located the Kapen and Split Rock leopards together on a boulder in the Kapen River.
A Photographic and Adrenaline-Filled Morning
The pair was deep into their mating ritual, a sight that confirmed the Kapen female had lost her cubs and was now in oestrus. Watching their interaction on the iconic boulder provided incredible photographic opportunities—her seductive movements, the male’s dominance, and the raw tension of their encounter. They mated repeatedly, every few minutes, as we documented the dynamic and action-filled moments.
The scene took a dramatic turn when the Ndzhenga male lions from earlier suddenly appeared, drawn by the leopards’ sounds. Both leopards vanished into the thickets, leaving the lions prowling around our vehicle and the surrounding rocks. Male lions are known to kill leopards, so this tense and heart-pounding sighting was unforgettable.
Afterward, we retreated to the Sand River for breakfast, cooling off in the crystal-clear waters while reflecting on the exhilarating encounter.
We spent the later part of our morning with the Maxims male, a massive and often elusive leopard. Resting under a giant Natal Mahogany tree along the Sand River, he posed beautifully, offering exceptional photographic moments. Watching him patrol and disappear into the wilderness was a privilege, as sightings of this dominant male are rare and special.
Afternoon Encounters
Later, we explored the northern part of the reserve along the Matsphapiri River. There, we found the young son of the Sibuye female—a photogenic and handsome leopard in the early stages of independence. Moving through lush green bushwillow thickets, he scent-tracked another leopard, pausing atop termite mounds and trees. We positioned our vehicle to capture stunning backlit images with vivid green bokeh, creating gallery-worthy shots that highlighted the emerald beauty of summer.
An Unforgettable Day
Photographing five individual leopards in a single day, including dramatic mating rituals, tense predator interactions, and iconic poses, made this safari experience truly remarkable. These moments will undoubtedly remain etched in our memories for years to come.
Day 5: If You’re Going to Pick a Leopard, Picc-a-dilly
Our morning began with the serenity of dawn on West Street Bridge, a perfect vantage point to scan the riverbed and listen to the bush’s subtle cues. In the stillness, the calls of birds and other wildlife often reveal a leopard’s location. Experience has shown me that patience and listening are among the best tools for finding these elusive cats. This morning, it worked once again, guiding us upriver to a stunning encounter with the Piccadilly female.
Morning with the Piccadilly Female
This older, striking leopardess is a familiar subject for me, her pale eyes and graceful presence never failing to captivate. We found her resting on the Mlowahti River bank, where she posed beautifully for portraits. Positioned below her in the riverbed, we photographed as she engaged in a tense standoff with a herd of impalas. Though she had already caught an impala lamb, she remained relaxed, allowing us to capture intimate images before leaving her to rest during the midday heat.
Afternoon with the Flatrock Male
Returning in the afternoon, we hoped to reconnect with the Piccadilly female. Though she had moved on, our search brought us to the Flatrock male, resting in the shade near MalaMala Main Camp. This impressive leopard was visibly well-fed but appeared uncomfortable, occasionally nibbling on grass—a behavior indicative of an upset stomach.
With the fading light, we left the Flatrock male to rest and returned to camp, concluding yet another memorable day on safari. From the beauty of the Piccadilly female to the raw reality of wildlife behavior with the Flatrock male, the day offered a rich tapestry of moments that reminded us of the wild’s unpredictability and wonder.
Day 6: Cape Clawless Otters and Enchanting Leopards
Our morning began with an extraordinary encounter: the elusive Cape Clawless Otters. Having seen their tracks the day before near the Sand River, we hoped to catch sight of these rare mammals, which are among the hardest to spot on safari. Fortunately, the otters didn’t disappoint.
Morning with the Cape Clawless Otters
We found one of the otters fishing along the river, moving gracefully through the watercourse and reedbeds. Sharing its habitat with Saddle-billed Storks, Hamerkops, and Pied Kingfishers, the otter repeatedly returned to a particular spot under a fallen tree, likely its den.
This was only my third time seeing Cape Clawless Otters in over a decade, including seven years as a full-time ranger at MalaMala and three years leading ORYX Photo Tours. Watching this charismatic creature in its element was a privilege, and the memory will stay with me for years to come.
Creative Photography with the Piccadilly Female
Later that morning, we revisited the Piccadilly female leopard, now resting in a forested thicket. With limited visibility due to dense foliage, we seized the opportunity to experiment with creative techniques. Shooting through layers of leaves, we framed her within vibrant greens, capturing the mystique of leopards hidden in lush summer vegetation.
This approach added depth and atmosphere to our images, portraying the elusive nature of leopards in a unique, almost painterly style. My guest, keen to practice habitat-focused shots, embraced this creative challenge with enthusiasm.
Afternoon with the Lookout Female and Her Cub
In the afternoon, we turned our attention to the Lookout female leopard and her six-month-old cub. They were resting near the rocky area where we’d seen a mating pair earlier in the week. The mother left on a patrol or hunt, allowing us to focus on her cub, who was calm, curious, and comfortable around our vehicle.
The cub’s striking eyes, resembling starbursts, captivated us as she posed at the entrance of an aardvark burrow. At one point, our vehicle accidentally got stuck when the ground near the burrow collapsed under its weight. Far from ruining the moment, this mishap gave us an unexpected advantage—perfect positioning for capturing the cub perched on a fallen log, framed by backlit foliage.
The golden light filtering through the leaves created a dreamy setting, and the cub’s playful poses on the log were enchanting. Shooting through the foliage added a dynamic and mysterious quality to our images, emphasizing the secretive life of young leopards. This approach brought a fresh perspective, setting our shots apart from the typical clean portraits often seen in wildlife photography.
As my guest transferred to another vehicle to continue photographing, I stayed behind to free the Land Cruiser. The timing couldn’t have been better, as she captured a breathtaking shot of the cub draped elegantly over a tree branch, illuminated by the last light of the day.
It was a day full of rare sightings and creative inspiration, reminding us of the beauty and unpredictability of the wild. From the elusive otters to the captivating young leopard, every moment was a testament to the wonders of safari.
Day 7: Lucky Leopard No. 10 – “Bamba, Station!”
Our final morning began with the sunrise, marking the last full day of our safari. Up until now, we had been treated to exceptional leopard sightings—nine different individuals showcasing some of the most captivating behaviors one could hope to witness. The forecast promised the hottest day of the trip, with temperatures climbing to 38°C, and by 7:00 AM, the heat was already palpable.
We spent the early morning tracking signs of movement, particularly those of three different female leopards. Despite our best efforts, they proved elusive. Deciding to change tactics, we stopped in a shaded forested area by the riverbank, where a herd of impala had gathered to drink. Baboons and vervet monkeys watched warily from the trees. We enjoyed breakfast amidst this tranquil setting, hoping for the telltale alarm calls of a predator
Our guide, David, humorously declared, “To find the leopard, you must think like a leopard!” He playfully draped himself over a fallen tree to mimic one. At that very moment, the monkeys erupted in alarm calls—David’s act couldn’t have been that convincing! Quickly packing up, we set off to investigate.
We soon found her—a young female known as the Stone Drift leopardess. She was our 10th individual of the trip, a remarkable milestone! Hungry and alert, she was stalking a herd of impala with their newborn lambs. Patiently, we observed from a distance as she moved strategically, using termite mounds and bushes for cover.
The tension mounted as she approached the herd, finally positioning herself behind a bush. Suddenly, the impala spooked, and in the chaos, three lambs ran directly toward her. In a flash, she pounced, catching one lamb just meters from our vehicle. The scene was breathtaking. She swiftly secured her kill, dragging it through the grasslands toward a towering Brown Ivory tree. We captured stunning images of her with her prize, both on the ground and as she hoisted it into the tree for safekeeping.
Witnessing a leopard hunt successfully—especially so close and in daylight—is a rare privilege. It was the pinnacle of our Leopard Odyssey, a truly unforgettable experience.
That afternoon, we sought out the Island female, suspecting she had cubs hidden nearby. Despite tracking her movements extensively along the Matshaphiri River, she remained elusive, likely tucked away in a secure den.
As the evening cooled and a storm brewed on the horizon, we returned to the Stone Drift female. Resting near her kill, she remained relaxed as we marveled at her elegance. Later, as night fell, she began to hunt once more. Guided by spotlights and the flashes of lightning from the storm, we witnessed her catch another impala lamb. This dramatic moment, framed by the storm’s ethereal light, provided an exhilarating end to our safari.
Highlights of Our Safari
Over the course of the week, we encountered 10 unique leopards, including:
- Territorial males
- Mother and her six month old cub
- A male sharing a carcass with a female and cub
- Courtship and mating behaviors, interrupted by lions
- Leopards in the summer greenery and golden light
- Leopards drinking water
- Leopards in trees
- Close encounters, walking right beside the Land Cruiser
- Thrilling hunts, including two successful kills right beside our vehicle
Each game drive delivered extraordinary moments—leopards in golden light, green backdrops of the summer rains, and heart-pounding action.
Why MalaMala with Daniel Bailey
Having spent over a decade observing and photographing these leopards, I bring intimate knowledge of their movements and behaviours. With a strong network of guides and staff, I ensure the best possible experiences for my guests.
My goal is to prioritize your shots and create a learning environment where you can build your skills and capture your own masterpieces. Whether you’re a seasoned photographer or a first-timer, I’ll guide you every step of the way.
Join me for a scheduled South Africa – MalaMala Photo Tour 2025 —like the one in November 2025 or 2026—and experience firsthand the magic of photographing these incredible animals.
Looking forward to guiding you,
Daniel Bailey
ORYX Photo Tour Leader
If you’d like to build a stunning photographic portfolio and experience these incredible moments with Daniel Bailey next year, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team. There are limited spaces available for just 3 photographers per tour.
South Africa – MalaMala Photo Tour 2025
Let Daniel Bailey guide you, providing expert coaching on capturing the perfect shot in-camera, post-processing tips, and sharing his wealth of knowledge gained from 7 years as a full-time photographic ranger at MalaMala.
With his deep understanding of the local wildlife, best locations, and unique bird sightings, Daniel is eager to help you hone your skills, learn from his experience, and walk away with unforgettable images and memories.
Join ORYX for an experience that will leave you with the very best images and stories to savour for a lifetime.For more information, contact us at [email protected] or email [email protected] for inquiries into private or tailor-made trips to suit your timeline and have Daniel Bailey accompany you as your ORYX Leader.