Zambia – Lower Zambezi Family Safari with Daniel Bailey

Lower Zambezi Family Safari

2 – 7 August 2025

On the 2nd of August, I met my guests at OR Tambo International Airport. A delay on their international flight had us racing through a whirlwind of security lines and check-in counters, boarding the flight to Lusaka in the final moments. And just like that, our Lower Zambezi Family Safari was underway.

After landing in Lusaka, we transferred to a smaller charter flight bound for Jeki Airstrip, deep in the heart of the Lower Zambezi National Park. This flight—only 30 minutes in the air—is one of my favourites in the world. As we soared southeast, we left the city behind, crossing the dramatic escarpment and descending into the Zambezi Valley. Every time I lay eyes on the river, it steals my breath. The shimmering course of the Zambezi, dotted with sandbanks, hidden channels, and lush islands, reveals itself below—hippos lazing in pods, crocodiles basking, elephants moving silently through this vast, untouched wilderness.

Our home for the next five nights would be Lolebezi Lodge by African Bush Camps—a haven of luxury tucked beside the river. It’s a place that offers not just comfort, but a portal into a landscape of extraordinary beauty, raw wilderness, and timeless family connection.

This trip had been years in the making. I first met this family at MalaMala, whilst working as full time guide, six years ago, and together we envisioned a reunion immersed in wild Africa. We sought a destination where everyone—from young adults to parents—could enjoy adventure, photography, discovery, and above all, time together. The mighty Zambezi was the perfect answer: a place where you can canoe through the Discovery Channel, drive across floodplains, explore enchanted winter thorn forests, and Lala palm groves, and search for iconic wildlife—elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, and even the famous Jeki pack of African wild dogs.

For me, this journey held deep personal meaning. The Zambezi Valley is my childhood homeland, the heart of my heritage. My family were among the first to operate camps in this remote corner of Zambia—places like Royal and Mwambashi—back when the park was barely known beyond a few adventurous travellers. The area was wild, pristine, untouched by tourism, and for the most part, it still feels like stepping back in time.

Arrival & Welcome

We touched down at Jeki just before sunset, where we were greeted by our local guides—Wallace, an experienced guide, and Eli, a talented female guide-in-training, part of ABC’s wonderful initiative to bring more women into what has traditionally been a male-dominated field in Zambia.

Our first game drive took us straight into the floodplains and then into the enchanting winterthorn forests. The golden evening light filtered through the trees like something from a dream—dust catching the rays, silhouettes of impala, baboons, kudu, and elephants weaving through the trees. As we approached the river, the Zambezi revealed itself in all its glory: water glowing in hues of orange and pink, hippos grunting their welcome, crocodiles sliding silently into the water.

As we neared the lodge, voices rose in song. The staff stood in the entrance, singing a traditional welcome that echoed through the trees—a deeply moving moment that immediately made us feel part of something bigger, part of the Lolebezi family.

We were welcomed with cold towels, refreshments, and a tour of the exquisite lodge. With every luxury one could dream of in the wild—stunning design, impeccable hospitality, and world-class food and wine—the lodge quickly became a sanctuary we looked forward to returning to each evening.

Wild Encounters

Throughout our stay, the wildlife sightings were nothing short of spectacular. We encountered lionesses on the move, a mother with two young cubs feeding on a baboon, and a new male known locally as “Grumpy.” We also saw the two dominant males of the region—infamously called The Brutal Boys—and witnessed most of the Kulefu pride.

We were lucky with leopards too. The legendary “Tag,” an older leopardess with tattered ears, patrolled her territory near a grove of ancient baobabs. We enjoyed afternoon high tea one afternoon with a young leopard on Chula Island, resting in the shade across from the main deck as we savoured our tea and cakes. Another leopardess—possibly “Mai,” known for having a young cub—was seen near Old Mondoro, though the cub remained hidden in thick foliage.

Large herds of cape buffalo, relaxed elephant families with playful calves, hippos in every channel, and crocodiles basking on the banks—it was a classic safari. The bull elephants, particularly impressive, stood on hind legs to reach seedpods of the winterthorn trees, a skill honed with age and experience.

The Quest for Wild Dogs

One morning, well before dawn, we set off for the western edge of the park, near the Nkalangi Channel and the base of Chilaunga—the highest peak in the escarpment. The wild dog pack had started denning far from the lodge, and we made the 1.5-hour journey wrapped in ponchos and blankets, hot water bottles in hand.

Our persistence paid off. At first light, we found the pack—17 strong—on the move, hunting impala across the floodplains. We watched for nearly two hours as they greeted each other, issued contact calls, and returned with bloodied muzzles, suggesting a successful morning. It was a thrilling, high-energy sighting, made even more special by the knowledge of how rare and endangered these animals are.

Magic Moments on Water

One afternoon, we took to the Zambezi by boat to try our luck at tiger fishing. We didn’t catch any fish, but we caught all the feelings—laughter, storytelling, sunset drinks, and a golden hour light show shimmering on the water.

Another highlight was our canoe safari on the Discovery Channel, a personal favourite of mine. After a safety briefing from Wallace and David, we donned life jackets and set off down the channel. Being at water level transforms the experience—no engine noise, just the rhythmic dip of the oar, the calls of birds, and the sounds of the wild all around.

Just minutes in, two hippo bulls launched themselves into the water from a sunbathing spot—sending up a huge splash. One of them gave us a chase, splashing and snorting in a dominance display. We held our course, stuck to the shallows, and exchanged a few words of French to calm our nerves! Eventually, he backed off, mouth open in a final warning before disappearing into deeper water.

The rest of the journey was serene: elephants drinking at the water’s edge, relaxed pods of hippos resting under towering mahogany trees, crocodiles slipping silently into the current, and a buffalo herd moving through the reeds. In the distance, baboons alarm-called—alerting us to the presence of the lioness and her cubs nearby.

The light in the Zambezi Valley during late afternoon is indescribable—it turns golden, then pink, then deep crimson as it filters through the canopy. We ended our 11-kilometre canoe safari where the channel rejoins the main river, met by Eli with our vehicle for sundowners and a night drive back to the lodge.

A Perfect Ending

That evening we found another leopard near Old Mondoro before pausing for our final sunset drinks—savouring the last evening sounds of the valley. On our night drive back, we encountered six large spotted genets, an African civet, and once again, the Brutal Boys—moving silently in the dark, roaring loudly, like ghosts patrolling their kingdom.

On our final morning, we were reunited with Tag once more. She was basking in the morning sun before disappearing into the thickets, leaving us with a final, intimate memory. After a hearty breakfast, we boarded our flight back to Lusaka, once again in awe of the Zambezi River as we rose above the escarpment, saying goodbye to a piece of paradise.

A Plan To Return

This was a special trip—not only for the incredible wildlife and landscapes, but for the time spent together as a family. It wasn’t purely about photography; it was about connection. To each other. To the wild. To ourselves. A chance to slow down, to feel something deeper, and to be present in a place that still feels ancient and sacred.

It was a privilege to host this family in Zambia, and I hope we’ll reunite in the not-so-distant future for another journey into the wild.

Scroll below to view the full-size image collection and slideshow of our unforgettable adventure.